Category archive: Travel

Harmony of Culture and Nature Inside Sentarum Lake

Deep Inside Sentarum Lake West Kalimantan, remains seven virgins of Iban who live in small village named Pengerak. These Iban women belong to Dayak ethnic group whom inhabiting Sentarum Lake area. It was lively evening in Pengerak village, where I’ve spent my night after a long full day trip by boat from Lanjak to Sentarum Lake. The dry season makes our trip faced a lot of difficulties due to the low tide of water that slowing our boat, but a warm hospitality from the villagers seems has covering all the tiredness during the trip.

I stay in one of Dayak Iban traditional longhouses called “rumah betang”, with a single-family dwelling located along rivers. They are still maintain strong links with the forests, as they still harvest non-timber and minor forest products, and practice some form of shifting cultivation. Dayak inhabiting Sentarum area are belong to three ethnic groups: Iban, Embaloh and Kantu’. The Embaloh and Kantu’ inhabit the areas east and west of the lakes, and the Iban mainly occupy the area to the north and northeast of Sentarum. The flat area to the north and northeast of the lakes is called the Emperan, and the Iban in this area call them selves the Emperan Iban.

Dayak Iban very famous for its skill in producing ethnic handicraft, one of the most well know is their weaving skill in “bemban” material (Donax cannaeformis). The bemban reed grows on wet ground near streams or on more hilly terrain. Iban’s bemban is one that famous for its strong, light to deep green plant with broad shiny leaves growing to a height of several meters. Two varieties are used in waiving; “bemban ai” or “bemban paya” (water or marsh bemban) grows closer to water, is fragile and only used in mats. “Bemban batu” or “bemban bukit” (stone or hill bemban), a very close species is tougher and lives on higher ground. It is of a deeper green than the other varieties and is used for baskets.

It was early in the morning when I saw two middle-aged villagers woman start weaving on a mat and a basket. For women in the Iban community weaving is a means of evaluating status. A woman, depending on her use of dye, design and skill, will fit into a certain rank within the community. In order to be a master weaver, Iban woman has to move up from rank to rank. To be successful, a woman has to have a tacit acceptance as an individual of a variety of spiritual agents as well as a creative understanding of the art of weaving.

The Life Above Motive

The handicraft motives made by Iban women represent the identity of the Iban community. Various pattern like nature, plants, animals and creature’s spirit were waved using bemban. One of Iban’s seven virgins named Kancak than offers me several waved mats with different pattern, she told me the name of each motives, and there is one motive that kind of attract me most. The motive called “anak amoi” which means sons of dew; morning moist that dropped in leaves has inspired her when she made this mat.

Iban woman originated those motives from their imagination and dreams that believed coming from the spirit of their ancestors “antu”. Several motives named “buah bernama” considered special and normally used for traditional ceremonies. Each motive illustrate the skill level of the creators and a way of recognizing the ability to compose motives was presented in the form of tattoos named “tegulun” that were drawn all over their knuckles. These tattoos than become their pride and status.  The seven virgins of Iban have been weaving bemban into handy every objects since early age. Today, they are equally expert at weaving this useful reed into modern fashion items such as purses and handbags or household objects like wastepaper baskets or laundry hampers.

To support the development of this community livelihood, most of Iban woman that live in Pengerak village are given economic empowerment training by local NGO’s so they are able to purchase their handicraft directly with visitors with a fair price. Each mats priced differently according to the size, for an average they priced 50,000 IDR for a 1×1 meters un-colored mat.

Villagers are very welcome to train you with the weaving process; you can just sit beside them and learn how to split the bemban properly, helping them with their works, this probably an immeasurable cultural exchange experience you could have.  Although the elders might find some difficulties in using Bahasa in explaining the how-to step, but some of the young villagers already know how speaks in Melayu, they will help you to explain what the elders mean, kind of warm-hearted open hospitality that makes me falling in love with this village at first.

Pengerak village and its people somehow had leaving a deep worth life experience. They had taught me a lot of knowledge and wisdom in how people and nature can life in harmony without too much exploiting on nature. Their modest, traditional way of lives has gives me much more enlightenment in preserving the culture for the balance of the ecosystem, a value that almost forgotten by modern people now days.

Menguji Mental di Gunung Gede

“Naik gunung itu bukan soal fisik Gan, tapi soal mental.” Ujar Pak Juned kepada Gegan, seorang bocah laki-laki berusia delapan tahun yang ikut dalam tim Argapela mendaki puncak Gunung Gede, 30 Juni 2013 lalu. Bagi Gegan yang berusia delapan tahun, ini bukanlah kegiatan pendakian gunung pertamanya, tapi bagi saya yang berusia 30 tahun, bisa dibilang ini adalah pengalaman pertama saya. Mungkin akan terlihat menarik bagaimana usia ternyata tidak menjadi acuan untuk mengukur kemampuan seseorang manusia dalam mencapai pengalaman hidup tertentu, apalagi berkaitan dengan pengalaman mendaki gunung, karena memang seperti yang dikatakan oleh Pak Juned tadi, ini berkaitan dengan mental.

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Happiness Project

Andy walking through Bengkol Savannah with Baluran Mountain as its background, East Java 2012

Your outer journey may contain million steps: your inner journey only has one: the step you are taking right now. As you become more deeply aware of this one step, you realize that it already contains within itself all the other steps as well as the destination. This one step then becomes transformed into an expression of perfection, an act of great beauty and quality. It will have taken you into Being, and the light of Being will shine through it. This is both the purpose and the fulfillment of your inner journey, the journey into yourself…” – Eckhart Tolle, The Power of Now

I am falling in love deeply, deep enough to know that this love has grown into an intense bounding after I finish my journey from Bromo, Ijen, and Baluran. My love to Indonesia’s nature has motivated me to travel more than I ever imagine. For me, the meaning of travelling has developed into wider understanding for my personal life. It now turns out into journey that connects me into myself, to see, to discover, to explore, and experienced things that I could not find in my daily life. To experienced and getting know more about new places in Indonesia is like collecting pieces of puzzle to complete myself, as if those pieces is a part of me that have been there for centuries and waiting for me to pick it. Parts that work to build my identity. Traveling in Indonesia has bridging gaps between me and my understanding about how beautiful, rich, and diverse Indonesia’s are, especially its nature, its culture and its people. Each of those components has become mystery puzzle that somehow contributing a deep sense of belonging for my love to my country, a love that brought me into a bigger consciousness and changing my way in seeing Indonesia. It is like following what have been said in Mathew 7:3 “Why do you look at the speck of sawdust in your brother’s eye and pay no attention to the plank in your own eye?”, and now it is time for me to open my heart so I will be able to pay more attention of those beauties that live close around me.

Traveling around Indonesia is like taking a chance to get out from my comfort zone, to attach more with my surrounding and society, to experience nature in more respectful way, to know that there are still plenty more that I do not know or only be able to know it by book or internet, to figure out that there are still many things that I can create and grow in Indonesia, to recall my history, to be conscious about myself by knowing more about my ancestor’s story and to preserve their heritage and legacy so my future generations will have a chance to learn about their forefather, and finally to be happy. Happiness that comes from the excitement through blessed feeling that I still have a chance to enjoy every God’s creation throughout Indonesia’s land, and to share it with my travel companion or all new people I’ve meet during my journey. It is like Tim Cahill ever said “A journey is best measured in friends rather than miles”. It is not about how far I could go or which part of the world I’ve been stepping in, but it is more about what I have been bounded more into, about getting more meaningful experience with people I’ve meet, a bounding that hopefully will be able to change my life and our society in more positive way. So I start it all from a land that have giving me food, birth place, and place to live, Indonesia.

The journey will begin at May, and I’ve choose zero kilometers of Indonesia as my starting point, Sabang Island and Weh Island near Nanggore Aceh than continue to Bukit Lawang, Medan for jungle trekking and water rafting. It will be a lifetime experience to see last survive Orang Utan, before their species disappear from the world, a chance to getting close to a creature with 93% human’s DNA living in wildlife. This could be my first and my last opportunity to experience the UNESCO World Heritage, Leuser rainforest ecosystem.

Piece of hope arise on my mind, I want to give more contribution through my future travel experience in Indonesia. I am imagining that my journey will somehow can contribute more to Indonesia’s development, and moreover to its people. Supported by innovation of information technology, I want to transform Indonesia as center for world’s ecoculture tourism and connect the world into one destination called Indonesia. It is like bringing the world back together into one super continent called Pangea so that each of us had an easy chance to share every potential and experience that we got during our journey around Indonesia. It is about bringing Indonesia to the world and world to Indonesia, for better sustainable world.

Baluran National Park, Hidden Africa in East Java

Baluran National Park is forest preservation area that extends about 25.000 ha on the north coast of East Java. Located in Sumberwaru village, Banyuwangi district, Situbondo (on the east border of Java Island) It has a dry climate and consists of lowland forests, savannah, mangrove forests and hills with a unique rich wildlife that no other national park that are so easy to visit and so easy to see wild animals.

Stepping out from our car, this is a road that lead us from Baluran National Park Gate to Bekol Savannah, (Photo by Anton)

On our way to Bekol Savannah, we stop by to an old well and find this big trees that looks like just fell down by nature. You can imagine that this big timber log is only a part of its branches (Photo by Leoni)

Jane took pictures of her tree. We call it Jane’s tree, since she’s the one who really eager to visit Baluran after seeing a beautiful shoot of a tree in the middle of Baluran’s savannah. (Photo by Andy Rizwandy)

There is something very African about the savannah grasslands of Baluran, which make it called “Africa van Java”. The park offers some great scenery where you can enjoy the panorama of savannah and mount Baluran (inactive volcano) in the center of area that becomes habitat of many exotic animals such as wild pigs, deer, peacocks, wild chicken, some species of monkeys and also bulls as the protected animals. You can enjoy the amazing scenery of the forest and do the safari activities in the wild life and feel the magic of the forest. Those areas almost accessible by car, you don’t even have to walk, unless you want to.

View of savannah with mount Baluran as its background (Photo by Andy Rizwandy)

The park is relatively small, but has ten types of ecosystems and hosts a wide variety and big numbers of animals and plants. The main attractions are the endangered Javanese wild ox (Banteng), Rusa deer, Barking deer, Feral water buffalo, Asiatic wild dog, and other species that become other common sightings such as; Leaf Monkeys, Monitor Lizards, Squirrels, Fruit Bats, Javan Warty Pig, Common Palm Vivet.

The park also once inhabited by the Javan tiger and even the very rare Javan panther. There are at the last count 140 bird species were spotted where species of birds such as hornbills, peacocks and bulbuls live in open area, designate this national park as heaven for bird watchers. It is also home for many species of trees, plants and flowers such as pecan nut trees, Maja, Gadung, Java tamarind trees and mount Widara.

You can do several activities in this park such as: safari forest, forest adventure, diving and snorkeling, mountain hiking and mount climbing, hill walking, beach adventure to watch the fishermen’s daily activities and seed seekers, canoeing, rowing or boating around coast line.

Entering Baluran National Park gate, you can see a historical place called “Gua Jepang” (Japan Cave). Gua Jepang is one of historical witness that in this place was happened battle between Indonesia army against Japanese army. Because unequal power, there are a lot of Indonesia army who died in that battle, so this place also called Batangan. Gua Jepang has wide about 12 km that contains in 2 chambers. The north chamber was used to save the weapon, while the south chamber was used as a fissure to see an enemy.

45 minutes or around 12 km from the national park entrance is Bekol Savannah, where you can find an observation tower on a hill and some waterholes where animals easily can be seen from a distance. This observation tower usually used by rangers to watch or to observe the animals’ behaviors around the surrounding region. You can bring a pair of binoculars or telescope to have a better look at the beautiful panorama and animals, at Bekol Savannah watch point. These rest area are rarely full but you might want to make advance reservations via the park office in Banyuwangi. Other camping facilities are also available in the park at Bekol Savannah.

Jane took pictures with her film camera from the top of watch point (Photo by Andy Rizwandy)

Or else you can go directly to Bama Beach, 15 km from the main entrance. It is located in the east of Baluran National Park where you can have a short mangroves forest trekking and enjoying habitat of coral reef, fish and mangrove. It is a beautiful white sand beach with fringing mangroves and a healthy offshore coral reef. One of special moment here is that you can see troops of ebony leaf monkeys with the long tail (Macaca fascicularis) fishing crabs with their long tail during the low tide.

Bama beach, where we spent time swimming and sunbathing, this picture than inspire us to name this journey as “Happiness Project” (Photo by Andy Rizwandy)

Baluran National Park coastline’s is formed by irregular peninsula and bay. It consists of mangrove forest, beaches and some coral reefs. The reefs are on a depth of 0,5m to 40m and nice for snorkeling and diving. Near the coast are living coral areas, sandbanks, and mudflats. The peninsulas are covered with mangroves, while other parts of the coastline are covered with swamp forest.

Five of us prepare entering mangrove forest trekking, which is not more than one kilometers way, ended by small pier (Photo by Tripod)

There are two guesthouses with some basic accommodation by the beach, but you should have prior reservation here. Villas and lodges, you can rent them with your group members about 20 persons capacity and the also provide a praying room and a canteen.

Getting there:

It will be better visit Baluran by your car or rent a car from Denpasar or Surabaya. It takes 5 hours from Surabaya and 4 hours from Denpasar, Bali by car. If you stay in Pasir Putih, you can also rent a car from Pasir Putih tourist resort which will takes around 1.5 hours and only 1 hour from Situbondo to the National Park’s entrance gate. There is also motorbike public transportation called “ojek” in the main entrance that will take you to Bekol Savannah or Bama Beach (with Negotiated cost). The nearest proper town to the park is Wonorejo on the north coast road between Banyuwangi and Probolinggo. The park entrance is no more than 30 minutes from the Banyuwangi ferry terminal by car or bus. 20,000 IDR/person permits fees are required to enter the park, which payable at the park office on the main road near Wonorejo.

Best time of year to visit:

The best season is during the six months dry monsoon. This is from May to October. With March to April and November to December as transition periods. Only February is unsuitable for wildlife observation. The dry season is the best time for wildlife observation, but the rainy season can be just as good if you are willing to sacrifice a little bit of comfort. It is still possible to get good sightings of wildlife on the savanna in January and February (weather permitting). In March to June, the high grass and shrubs will in general obstruct good sightings of wildlife when staying on the road. But going off-road into the savanna will create better opportunities. June to October is the ideal months for wildlife observation, photography and shooting video. November and December, have normally some days with rain. This changes the barren landscape to a fresh and green panorama.

Chinese Heritage Centre, a Blast Experience about Singapore’s Chinese Migrants

Spend some time to have a walk around China Town while you are travelling in Singapore, and do not forget to insert Chinatown Heritage Centre into one of your to do list. Located within three beautifully restored shop houses along Pagoda Street, the Chinatown Heritage Centre houses a wealth of memories and untold stories from the past. Here, you can discover the secrets and chronicles of the migrants who made the perilous journey from their homeland to Singapore.

If you are travelling by car you can only have a drop-off at adjoining streets like Temple Street and Mosque Street or New Bridge Road because The building cannot be access by car, since it is located in a pedestrianized shopping area and does not allow vehicular access. Or you can take MRT and drop in Chinatown Station (NE4) that located only 10 meters from the building.

It is a nice conceptual gallery that was comfortably nestled in the midst of Singapore’s bustling Chinatown district. With $10 admission charges for an adult, you can have a sense of nostalgia about landmarks and buildings in Chinatown during the old days and breathes the stories of the original tenants at 50 Pagoda Street, from the tailor and his apprentices, to the Samsui women and the coolies.

Entering every rooms of these shop houses and their room gives us atmosphere about time where Chinese migrants braved the unknown destiny they have to face everyday. Every nook and cranny in the Chinatown Heritage Centre pulsates with the memories of yester year, offering an experience like no other, as one is transported to Chinatown in the budding years of Singapore’s establishment as a seaport. From the desperate hopefulness of the many sinkheh (migrants) risking life and limb to embark on an arduous journey from various Chinese provinces to the promised land of Singapore, to the raw seedy and underground practices of gambling dens and secret societies.

Walk through the corridors of tough times, level 1 give us starting with Chinese migrants arrival to the shores of Singapore and end their struggles to make ends meet. Within the dark, dim settings of the gallery. Every pictures and installation giving us the sense of hardships many of those migrants faced and though lives they had to lead. The first room display Chinese traditional dragon boat installation that was used by Chinese migrants in the late 1800s, an era where they arrive in Singapore in large numbers. Chinese migrants were drawn to ‘Nanyang’ (Southeast Asia) because of the promise of jobs and a brighter future. Their hopes were to earn money for their families, and save up enough to return home. Here we can discover the circumstances that forced early migrants to look for greener pastures overseas. Understand the torrid conditions that early settlers underwent to arrive safely in Nanyang, a place perceived to be filled with gold.

In level 2 we were entering the second room of the galleries painted a bright and colourful picture of the ‘golden years’ of Chinatown in the early 50’s, much in contrast to the decade before. Here, we can find out about the bustling activities and trades that were prevalent in Chinatown and experience the life through the eyes of its early residents. Inside the roots area appear an outstanding wall of words; symbolize different dialect groups from many different Chinese migrants that specialized in different trades. The 4th room illustrate. The clan association as the centre of life migrants, where they were formed based on dialect groups, surenames, occupations or places of origin. Meanwhile the 5th room give us a portray of immoral or wicked behaviour in early hard life that turn into drinking, gambling, brothels and opium smoking to escaping immigrants life problems. Opium becomes their addiction that gives downfall of their dream return to China. In 6th room there is a replica of Da Dong Tea House like it used to be in the 1950s to 60s, whereas room 7 appear to present Chinatown buzz life and colour during the festive seasons.

There are interesting diverse installation appear in 11th room of the 2nd level, which presents a cubical living for each different immigrant in different professions and jobs. This floor is authentic recreation of the living quarters of unit 50, Pagoda Street. The cubical were made so authentic that they were able to see tattered toilets and the dirty used old kitchen set inside the room. They are eight other cubicles aligned in this level. The first cubical represent a room that occupied by a group of coolies, which also functions as opium den, with the next cubicle was occupied by carpenters, hawkers, shoe seller, painter, seamstress and Samsui Women. Samsui women were Cantonese and Hakka immigrants from three districts in Sanshui. During that time Samsui women had a reputation of rejecting jobs involving drug peddling, prostitution, or other vices, even if that meant they sometimes had to live in poverty. They wore a red headdress, which became their trademark feature. The red headdress was a square piece of blood-red cloth folded in a way that it sat like a fairly large rectangular roof on their heads. They dressed in a stiffly starched black samfoo, a tunic-and-trouser suit, protected by an apron. The sandals they wore were pieces of rubber cut out from used tyres and fashioned on their own with a strap.

Going down to level one for an exit, here you will be entering a Tailor’s Quarters room, that become most affluent occupants in the building during that time. The tailor has his own rooms – one held his family and the other held his apprentice. He had his own kitchen and air well. One can see from the living space that the line between work and family living is often blurred. Behind the shop front, lies the main workshop, where assistant carry out sewing, ironing, and other miscellaneous work. This shop on the ground floor of the shop house is a replica of the many tailor shops that used to line Pagoda Street, this room also marking the end of the journey.

This unique heritage centre is really competent to offering history, culture and education in a rich conceptual design through its presentation and displays. Its authentic Chinese tiled roof, floor and wall, houses a fascinating selection of interactive, audio-visual and static displays compact in a complete personal touched story about one restored shop building in Pagoda Street. A series of exhibition spaces that gives different experience state of the art presentations in each of its room and floor with the displays of Chinese artefacts and period pieces that provide a record of the replica in thematic story about Chinese migrant’s live during each different time and different social status. It gives us a deep experience about how migrant’s culture evolves as well as left us a story about survival through times and hardships of migrant’s live. A past experience that worth to learn and understand in order to honour the ancestors and knowledge for better future.

What Makes You Addicted to Traveling

China Town, Singapore 25 April 2012

What makes you addicted to traveling? Pertanyaan yang selalu ingin saya sampaikan pada teman saya, yang baru saja pulang dari Bali Jumat kemarin setelah seminggu sebelumnya diving di Krabi dan minggu depan akan berada di Dubai. Traveling membuat nya bisa menjadi diri nya sendiri, ujarnya. Jadi apakah selama ini ia merasa tidak hidup sebagai dirinya sendiri? “Bukan begitu”, lanjutnya mencoba menjelaskan lebih jauh. “Rutinitas hidup di Jakarta membuat kita jadi tidak bebas mengekspresikan diri kita. Karena dalam lingkup pekerjaan maupun lingkungan keluarga ada ekspektasi-ekspektasi tertentu yang harus dipenuhi. Lagipula travelling amat sangat membantu kita untuk keluar dari kebosanan, menemukan hal-hal baru, berkenalan dengan banyak orang, dan melihat pemandangan yang berbeda, mencoba mencari pengalaman yang baru setiap saatnya”.

“Jadi sering traveling sendiri?”  Merespon jawabannya mengenai kebebasan dari  ikatan kerja serta keluarga saya penasaran mencoba melakukan konfirmasi. “Ngga juga, minimal berdua, atau bertiga, kalo jalan ke Singapore sering sendiri buat belanja terutama celana, karena disini lebih murah” jawabnya lebih jauh. Baginya traveling merupakan suatu usaha untuk mencapai suatu kesadaran akan besarnya dunia dan semakin kecilnya diri kita di hadapan tuhan. “Orang yang sering traveling biasanya akan semakin merunduk.” ujarnya. Sayapun menambahkan dengan sebuah analogi “Mungkin seperti ilmu padi, semakin berisi semakin merunduk” di setujuinya dengan anggukan dan tiupan panas pada sesendok frog porridge yang meletup dari claypot.

Hidangan selanjutnya, senampan “Assam Fish” hohoho. Saya sedikit terperanjat tidak menyangka bahwa porsinya akan sebesar itu. Ikan berkuah kuning yang seru, dengan siraman sayuran berisi potongan eggplant, lady finger, long bean. Rasa asam manis alami dari potongan nanas dan tomat, mempercantik warna kuah kuning bertabur chilli paste, seperti kuah-kuah di restaurant padang, hanya saja rasanya segar dan harum, dengan irisan daun jeruk yang memperkuat aroma, sangat bernuansa chinese malay, mengingatkan saya akan masakan uncle di restaurant tempat saya bekerja dulu.

Makan malam di sekitar Chinatown memang membutuhkan keterampilan menggunakan bahasa Inggris sederhana dengan bahasa tarzan, karena tidak semua pelayannya mengerti bahasa Inggris.Kami pun perlu melakukan konfirmasi berkali-kali mengenai pesanan kami, atau paling mudah dengan menunjuk makanan yang kita pesan langsung di menu yang tertera. Jangan lupa untuk membawa ekstra tissue basah dan tisu kering, atau paling tidak bisa dibeli dari pedagang tissue yang menghampiri anda ketika makan. Bentuk bisnis yang sangat cerdas, restaurant sengaja tidak menyediakan tissue agar memberikan kesempatan untuk lapangan pekerjaan lain tetap berjalan, yaitu penjual tissue ketengan.

Kami tinggal di hotel 1929, di sudut Keong Saik Road, hanya sekitar 5 menit berjalan kaki ke stasiun MRT stop Chinatown. Hotel kecil dengan jendela yang bagus, kebetulan saya mendapatkan kamar di sudut yang menjadikan kamar mandi saya terlihat lebih luas dengan warna putih mendominasi, bersih. Dari luar bangunannya masih mempertahankan konsistensi bangunan victoria, menyesuiakan dengan konservasi bangunan China Town sekitarnya, sisa imperialisme Inggris. Untuk akomodasi saya serahkan pada teman saya untuk memilih, karena saya tau dia orang yang sangat selektif untuk urusan tempat menginap. Tidak dalam hal harga, tapi dalam hal kebersihan dan pelayanan. Kalo untuk saya sendiri, saya bisa tidur dimana saja, di stasiun kereta api, di masjid, selama bisa menyenderkan badan saya, yah power nap pun sudah cukup.

Teman saya ini tipe “pencari pengalaman” baginya perlu untuk mencicipi semua bentuk pengalaman traveling. Biasanya kalo traveling, minimal dalam salah satu malam ia akan memilih untuk menginap di sebuah boutique hotel, atau boutique villa yang eksotik, katanya untuk hanya sekedar memiliki pengalaman merasakan perbedaan dari tiap bentuk akomodasi dan membuat level perbandingan yang eksperimentatif, to be honest he can be a good travel reviewer dengan segala pengalaman dan kemampuannya untuk membedakan mana yang poor, bad, average, good, very good, extremely good, sedangkan saya hanya mengenal 2 kata ditengahnya; good and very good, sebuah bekal untuk saya agar dapat menikmati setiap momen dan pengalaman dalam perjalanan-perjalanan saya. Karena bagi saya, less expecting means more experiencing, semangat untuk memulai semua perjalanan dengan kepala kosong dan siap mengisinya dengan segala kenangan, kejutan, dan senyuman.